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About Officina delle Essenze

Officina delle Essenze means personal and home perfumes. It’s a family-owned company where there’s still the Italian know-how which led to success the Made in Italy all over the world, as a synonym of handcrafted luxury. It’s a journey which goes on through the blog, where the brand accompanies the niche perfumery lovers to the discovery of always new olfactory paths as well as reference articles and advice on its products.

The shelf life of perfumes
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The shelf life of perfumes

Like any other signature beauty product, even the best niche perfumes have their expiration date. Although the shelf life of each fragrance is already quite long, quality raw materials extend it even more. After 36 months from the first spritz, the natural composition of essential oils could change, especially in case of improper storage.

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Olfactory pyramid sample
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The olfactory pyramid

When we smell a perfume, our natural gesture, breathing, activates our senses. By inhaling a fragrance, each one of us perceives it differently. However, thanks to the scent composition we manage to sense and discover it in an objective way. It happens due to an olfactory pyramid that every fragrance has. But what is it? Why is the olfactory pyramid so important?

WHAT IS THE OLFACTORY PYRAMID?

The olfactory pyramid is a classification of olfactory notes that make up a perfume. Aimé Guerlain used the term of a pyramid for the first time in 1889 to describe one of her creations Jicky.

The concept of the olfactory pyramid can be compared to the musical scale. Each fragrance is classified according to the degree of volatility and persistence of its notes.

The perfumed notes, depending on how they are mixed among each other, make up a perfume. We perceive them differently, based on the moment of application on our skin.

Jicky di Guerlain

HOW TO INTERPRET THE OLFACTORY PYRAMID

The olfactory pyramid is interpreted from top to bottom and indicates multiple facets of a fragrance itself. As a perfume gradually evaporates, it reveals new nuances and accompanies us with a new trail thanks to the olfactory classification of every single note.

Every fragrance consists of top notes, at the top of the pyramid, middle or heart notes, in the middle, and base notes, the most persistent ones

Once the olfactory notes are mixed in order to create a perfume, they transform into chords. Each one of them communicates a different nuance of the fragrance. If we take it into account, it will be easier to choose or wear a perfume depending on our occasion.

Olfactory Pyramid with top notes, heart notes and base notes.

Top notes

We smell the top notes right away, at that very moment when some drops of a perfume touch our skin. They are the ones we sense at the beginning, and for this reason, they are the ones we catch immediately.

The top notes represent the most volatile part of a perfume because they fade right after a few moments from its application. The most common olfactive families on the top of the pyramid are citrus and marine.

For example, the citrus notes of Bergamot and Lemon prevail in Puro Neroli and reveal right at the first contact with the skin. The high concentration of these two raw materials in the formula gives a very intense top note to the fragrance. It manifests itself for a long time before giving space to the heart notes.

Heart notes

The heart notes are those that are perceived after some minutes. We notice them immediately after the top notes. It is about the warmest part of the olfactory composition of a fragrance, the one that often distinguishes the soul of the fragrance that we wear.

We smell the heart notes for up to four, six or eight hours after its first application. Moreover, in most times, they are composed of floral or fruity olfactory chords.

The floral note of Osmanthus in Osmarine manifests itself for many hours along the whole trail of the perfume and conveys a desired olfactory harmony already present among the top notes.

Base notes

The core of all niche perfumes are base notes, the most persistent and long lasting notes. We can smell them on our skin after eight hours and even the day after wearing our perfume (depending on the skin pH).

The most intense notes in the bottom of the olfactory pyramid are spicy, woody, oriental, gourmand or leathery. The lighter fragrances, on the other hand, have Vanilla, Chypre or Musk as final notes.

The Sandal, one of the most important base notes, enhances the perfume Caldo Legnoso. In this olfactory harmony, the Sandal reveals through all olfactory pyramid, taking place and passion right from the heart of the perfume. Standing out makes this note so peculiar, that is why the base of a perfume is distinctively perceived on the skin also the following morning.

HOW MUCH TIME DO WE NEED TO CHOOSE A FRAGRANCE?

If we know the olfactory pyramid of a fragrance, the volatility of top, middle and base notes, we will immediately learn a fundamental aspect: never judge an essence at first sight.

Considering that every chord can be influenced by our skin pH, it is highly important to go well beyond the top notes in order to understand a perfume. It would be like drinking a glass of excellent red wine, perhaps vintage wine, without decanting it first.

Never judge in a hurry a niche perfume. Similar to a good piece of music, it is often necessary to listen to it two, even three times to understand whether we like it or not

The perfume changes over time, gradually as it reveals. For this reason, it is always necessary to make more than one try before your final choice. Do not make hasty judgments and give all necessary time to let the fragrance reveal completely.

EVERY NOTE IS MEANINGFUL

We have explained how an olfactory note, being a part of the top, heart and base notes, depends on its level of volatility in contact with air. This clearly explains us the reason why the scents with a dominant citrus feature will hardly have the same persistence of a scent with woody or gourmand characteristics.

It is impossible to make essential Orange Blossom oil evaporate more slowly or behave like a base note. Precisely because it is the nature itself to determine the laws and not perfumers.

In fact, this is one of the greatest challenges for those who create a perfume. The challenge to create a balance based on the top notes together with the heart and base notes without making dominant the last ones.

Olfactory notes in Grasse Perfumery School

Those who choose a perfume in a hurry must accept the fact that every fragrance expresses itself according to own characteristics. We need to enjoy our favorite fragrance for its natural predisposition and not for what we expect it to be.

THE OLFACTORY HARMONY

Regardless the classification of the olfactory stages, we do not clearly perceive how a perfume evolves when we wear it. In fact, the notes of a perfume intertwine among each other in order to give natural olfactory harmony to the scent. A delicate balance, created thanks to the right dose of every component. A game of the parts based on a balance of natural elements that result in an unprecedented olfactory facet. This is the beauty of the artistic perfumery. The power to count on new creations and interpretations always unique that are worth trying over and over again.

Have your perfumed Christmas with our gift ideas
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Guides

Have your perfumed Christmas with our gift ideas

Giving a perfume as a Christmas gift is always the right choice. Imagine a single product but with infinite combinations. Imagine your olfactory sense carrying you across timeless memories and atmospheres through a far away travel. And you will experience these new sensations comfortably at home while you are sitting in your cosy living room.

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Oud Gourmand profumo di nicchia Officina delle Essenze
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News

Oud Gourmand, an embrace of intense contrasts

Why can an embrace be so intense? A lot of things can be transmitted through an embrace between two bodies: pleasure, sensuality but also tenderness and sweetness. That’s what happens when the woody notes of Oud combine with the sweet nuance of Vanilla Bourbon, Coconut and Caramel. It’s a mix and is already a harmony, a perfect chemistry between two worlds which embrace in a refined harmony. The result is Oud Gourmand, the new fragrance by Officina delle Essenze.

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Home fragrances HOMI 2018 - Officina delle Essenze 16
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News

Home perfumes by Officina delle Essenze arrives at HOMI 2018

A new way to decorate our homes, travelling through the emotions in the world of artistic perfumery. Officina delle Essenze creates a real olfactory path through its home perfumes and transforms our home into the most beautiful story to live in. Essential oils diffuse in the air, fill in all your rooms and give character to your spaces.

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Osmarine, ricordi e profumi di un’estate italiana
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Stories

Perfumes and memories of an Italian summer

Memories of a summer in Italy”, this is the way we can tell you a story made of perfumes and experiences. The perfumes are the ones by Officina delle Essenze, while Anna Maruschenko’s emotions are the other part of these memories. Anna is a Russian blogger and expert of niche perfumery as well as brand ambassador for Officina delle Essenze.

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